I live in Portland. For the last six months it’s been grey, cloudy, and wet. The rare moments of sun were welcomed because they didn’t stay. There wasn’t enough time to get sunburned or worn out by the bright light. It’s been 70 and sunny the last couple of days here in Rome. Now I’m not complaining; walking for hours on end in the rain would be super lame, but man does the sun wipe you out. What started as a quick walk to the Pantheon ended up being a five hour journey. Every time you think you’ve seen something impressive, another corner awaits with something even more breathtaking.
We made it to the Pantheon yesterday at 8:30 just as it opened. I think we’ve figured out our new strategy. It was EMPTY. I mean like three guards, a couple other tourists and us.
We walked to the back of the plaza to get a good overall view of this building. It’s covered in scaffolding, but the fountain in the center was pretty impressive. All over Rome are obelisks that were looted from Egypt and erected in the city. This one had some vicious looking duck things. Dig the double tongue spout.
Upon walking into the Pantheon my jaw dropped. As like most things here, books only show you so much. Standing in this building is more than overwhelming. Built more than two thousand years ago, this place defies understanding.
That’s poured concrete up there. The ceiling is open, and the floor is convex so that the rain goes to the gutters. Originally built for the most important gods in Roman culture, it went through some pretty rough times and is now a church. The tomb of Raphael is here as well.
After spending some time here and signing our names in the guestbook(?!) we found our way to another plaza. There are three Bernini fountains here, the largest and most impressive being under construction and behind a boarded wall. There were windows to peak through, but the glass ruined all attempts at pictures.
I don’t know if I’d hold a spear that close to my boys, but it sure looks wicked.
Not quite feeling tired yet we decided to find the Vatican. Impressive as it was, we didn’t go through the security to get into the piazza. The tourists at the Vatican seemed different and more subdued, probably because it holds more meaning to Catholics than ancient ruins do. It was filled with people and some alpine horns were being played. It was odd. We’re going to make another trip there next week to see the basilica and the Sistine Chapel.
Heading north we got a sandwich and a Beck’s and rested our feet for a while in the park surrounding Hadrian’s tomb. The tomb was more like a fortress, with 50′ walls.
Finally feeling tired we headed east towards home. Knowing that the crowds were starting to thicken we tried to avoid the Coliseum so we tried a northern approach. This ended up taking 2 and a half hours….
Eventually we found ourselves at the Piazza del Popolo which was incredible. Everything in Rome is built with a purpose. From the obelisk in the center of the piazza you can look down the center road to the Capitol. Flanking the main road are two arteries that fan out diagonally. Everything(almost anyway) is built in a series of three. The churches were built to perpetuate the design. Nothing is too much, no detail is too extravagant. Immediately after this photo I turned to see Misia with three roses in her hand and a vendor asking me for money. He told her they were gifts, but he ended up bugging me until I gave him 1,50. After the 5 euros I found the other day, I’m still up. Not wanting to be seen as a “mark” we ditched the flowers and called it even. It’s annoying being seen as a target, especially when you try your damnedest to avoid eye contact and keep your hands to yourselves. Don’t even get me started on the gladiators with swords…
Eventually we found our way back to the apartment with a quick stop at the market. I still haven’t tried all the beers yet, but we’re getting closer.
And while this isn’t beer, I couldn’t help but buy this vodka. John, my father-in-law likes the vodka, and after we polished off his last bottle the other night we felt we’d pick up another one for him. Turns out this was the only bottle in the Tabbach next to our apartment. Fuzzy vodka!
Today we’re taking it easy. Maybe a museum or two, but Misia’s mom has the day off and we’re going to lay low. Right now all I can think about is Roubaix.